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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.